Spinning
Courtesy of Gail Kilgore & Historic
Highlanders*
The spinning of wool and linen fibres into yarn has been
practiced in Scotland for many centuries, as evidenced by the
discoveries of early spinning devices. Early spindles consisted of
a stick through the center of a flat disc attached to it for the
weight. This was known as a whorl, or dealgan in Gaelic.
The whorl could be made of wood, stone, and in later periods even a
potato. Obviously, the ancient whorls which have survived were made
of stone.
The type of spinning done with this device dates from prehistoric
times, not only in Scotland, but in many other areas of the world.
Some third-world countries, even today, utilize this method of
spinning. A bundle of cleaned fibres could be attached to a staff,
or cuigeil, to aid in the spinning process. It was kept
upright at one's side by being fixed in a belt fastened around the
waist and steadied by the arm. This method of spinning was known as
distaff spinning.
The distaff, or fearsaid, was not always used, as the
spindle itself could be spun by being suspended so that the spinner
could work while standing or walking, thus creating a greater
length of thread. Having set it in motion by the fingers and thumb,
the fibres, which have been attached to the spindle, are twisted
into thread of the requisite fineness. The spinner continued to
draw off fibre from the distaff, spinning until a convenient length
was obtained, and then would wind the thread around the spindle,
repeating the operation and removing the balls of completed yarn to
be woven when a sufficient supply had been spun.
Spinning was a female task done in the home to provide bedding
and clothing for the family. Most Highlanders lived in remote areas
and small villages, so that all their possessions were
hand-crafted. It wasn't until the beginning of the 18th century
that males started to spin as an occupation as part of "spinning
schools" at the very start of the industrial revolution. This
occurred in the larger towns and more populous areas.
As always, any innovation was slow to find its way into the
Highlands because of the remoteness, as well as the reluctance to
change what had worked for them for centuries. So women continued
to spin in their own homes for their families. We have the word,
"spinster" and the term, "the distaff side" which come from these
humble chores.
Spinning with the distaff, or "drop spindle" as it is sometimes
referred to, was a slow process to create enough yarn for the
weaving to begin. The first improvement was the addition of a
simple wheel which produced the yarn much faster. This "muckle" or
"great" wheel, however, was a static process. One rotated the wheel
with one hand while the other held the fiber, walking it out as the
yarn was spun. The next step was to then wind it back onto the
spindle. This wheel was eventually replaced during the 18th century
by the "little" or "Saxony" wheel which was operated by a treadle.
Now, the twisting and winding of the yarn was done in one step, yet
another improvement in the time factor.
The spinning wheel was unknown in Europe until the 13th century,
and probably did not reach Scotland for another two or three
centuries. In some parts of the Highlands, no kind of spinning
wheel was in general use until the end of the 1700's. Distaff
spinning was still being practiced regularly in the Western
Highlands and Islands until the mid-1800's. The reasons for this
were various, but really quite simple. Firstly, as mentioned
before, the wheel was a static process, whereas the spindle was
portable to the fields to tend animals, or walking back from
gathering peat (in a basket supported by shoulder harness on one's
back and balanced by a headstrap); thus, one's hands were free to
spin! Women were extremely reluctant to give up that light-weight
portable object which allowed them to perform two tasks at the same
time. Another reason was cost and availability. The Highlanders
were excessively poor and many had no money at all to buy an
object, nor the means to travel so far to find one. Of course, the
Lowlands, larger towns or ports, as well as the wealthy classes
were quicker to adopt new inventions due to their
accessibility.
Spinning as a source of employment and the use of the wheel grew
alongside the flourishing linen industry in the 18th century. Linen
garments were commonplace and not considered luxury items as we do
today. The spinning and weaving of Scottish wool has always been
important to the textile industry. The importance of the wheel as a
source of income declined with the increasing use of mechanisation.
Today, some prefer to hold to traditional methods, and do practice
a "cottage industry" as we think of it now.
Obviously, tartan wool fabric is now very popular and the high
value placed on it is world-renowned. The "Made in Shetland" label
may only be used if the garment was actually made in the Shetland
Islands. "Harris Tweed" has to made in the Western Hebrides using
Scottish wool. These are more contributions which we Scots have
given the world, all from the very ancient and humble traditions of
our Scottish ancestors which we Historic Highlanders are proud to
represent.