How to wear the kilt
based on an article by Harry Lindley
The late Harry Lindley was a legendary figure in the world
of tartan. As a Director of the long established (1868) Edinburgh
firm of Kinloch Anderson - Royal Warrant holders for Tailoring and
Kiltmaking to HM The Queen, HRH The Duke of Edinburgh and HRH The
Prince of Wales - he was special adviser on Highland dress to the
Royal Family. If one wanted to know how to dress 'properly', one
asked Harry! Since he wrote this article in 1989, dress codes have
not changed a great deal but a touch of informality has certainly
appeared and we have added our own comments here and there in
Harry's article.
The most important thing to remember when wearing Highland
evening dress is that it represents a proud heritage and a proud
people. Whilst one can take certain sartorial liberties, they
should not be so outrageous as to offend more conventional guests!
Harry would not have been so indelicate as to discuss the music
hall joke of what was worn under the kilt. ("Nothing is worn under
the kilt Madam - it's all in perfect working order!). It is however
the perennial question and the answer is to be found at Under
the Kilt at the end of this article.
The style of today is a development and modification of the
ancient garb, which still retains all its essential features. Yet
this modern style differs even from the Highland dress of 60 years
ago, just as the ordinary dress has altered during a similar
period, and it reflects the changing taste and practical conditions
of the 20th century.
Although the modern Highland dress is essentially up
to date, it still reflects the Scottish character in that it is
susceptible to modification to individual tastes and clan
traditions in a manner not found in other modern male attire. This,
however, involves the necessity of expert advice, combining of
modern skill with knowledge of both past tradition and present
tendencies, in order to prevent the anachronisms and travesties
still occasionally met with, or where outfits have been acquired
from sources not in touch with the great Scottish families around
which centres the Scottish clan system and its customs.
Basically the costume for civilian wear may also be said not to
have altered since the 18th century. Yet, in matters of detail,
each generation has introduced modifications, and even modern
fashions have appropriately exerted their influences, though
curiously enough, they have in matters of Highland dress in many
ways lead to rediscovery of both the practical and artistic
advantages of the older Scottish styles which, during the 19
century, had tended to become more oppressive in cut and
decoration. As an example of minor changes in taste, the sporran of
an all-white goat hair, almost universally the fashion during the
Victorian age, has to a great extent given place to a smaller
sporran of sealskin, often elaborately decorated with pierced and
engraved silver mountings.
In recent years the tendency has been for coats worn with the kilt
to be designed with greater simplicity, both for day and evening
wear, and to concentrate rather on the cut and lines than on braid
and decorations. The taste however, varies noticeably in different
clans and districts, and those favoured in the north and west are
usually of more elaborate style. In many cases the demand for
lightness has led to the selection of the coatee in place of the
doublet. All these modern coats however, are very graceful as well
as practical and comfortable garb. Moreover, the coloured velvet
doublets and coatees of the 18th century, which could be so well
adapted to suit the shades of individual tartans, have again been
returning to favour, often with the characteristic silver braiding
in a suitably modified form; whilst crosscut tartan jackets have
always retained their popularity in the West and amongst country
families.
Knowledge of these points and the ability to carry them out
successfully are, needless to say, beyond the scope of the ordinary
tailor. The tailoring of correct Highland dress is, indeed an thing
apart from ordinary tailoring, involving as it does a knowledge
both of military and traditional civilian practice as well as a
background of origins of tartans, the clan system and heraldry.
Highland dress as adapted for evening wear, makes a serviceable,
smart and becoming evening dress for men of all ages. In this
modern world where one is travelling far and wide and wishing to
wear the evening kilt outfit, the following suggestions may
help.
Dressing (in sequence):
1. Shirt. You should wear a white plain style
collar-attached with either a button or cuff link style cuffs. Keep
it simple - no pleats at all or colour trimmings. It should be worn
with a black bow tie. Recently the shirt makers have introduced an
attached wing-collar giving a similar appearance to the 1930s
traditional stiff-fronted shorts with separate wing collar. This
style of shirt can be worn as an alternative. After the kilt has
been put on, the wearer should slide his hands up under the kilt
and pull the shirt down as far as it will go.
2. Kilt hose. Start with the kilt hose, garters
and shoes. The hose turnover should be above the calf but not
covering any part of the lower knee. White kilt hose is regarded by
many as an abomination and should only be worn by pipe bands. The
culprits in the wide spread exposure given to this sartorial 'faux
pas' are the kilt hire companies who, understandably, find it much
more economically viable to offer hose of any colour as long as
it's white! Cream hose is acceptable as are any colours that tone
in with the jacket or kilt. Diced or tartan hose can also be
worn.
3. Sgian Dhubh. If you wish to wear a sgian dhubh
it is normally worn in the right stocking. It can be worn on the
left leg if you are left-handed. Remember, it is a weapon and
should be naturally accessible to you. Be advised that modern
legislation in some countries places a question mark over the
wearing of such an 'offensive' weapon.
4. Footwear. The smartest footwear with evening
dress is undoubtedly buckle brogues but since these are very hard
to come by, any smart formal shoes will suffice or, what are known
as ghillie brogues with the long laces that tie around the
ankles.
5. The Kilt. The kilt comes next and is worn
firmly by the straps and buckles at the waist. The hem should come
to the crest of the kneecap thus showing the knee.
6. The Sporran strap. This should be put through
the sporran loops at the back of the kilt and chains brought
forward to attach them to the rings at the rear of the sporran. You
then adjust the hang of the sporran by means of the rear strap and
buckle.
7. The Sporran. It is most important that the
sporran is worn high and not midway down the front apron.
Your coatee and vest then finish the evening Highland dress
outfit.
Notes:
Lace Jabots and ruffles are not suitable to wear
with the coatee and vest (waistcoat). They are usually worn with
the close-fitting high buttoned style of doublet.
If medals are to be worn, they should be on the left breast.
Medals should be miniatures.
Waist belts with a silver buckle are not required when
wearing a waistcoat. If you wish to wear a belt then it is
recommended you have the kiltmaker sew on two, two-and-a-quarter
inch belt loops beside the sporran loops at the back to avoid the
belt slipping up over the top of the kilt and creating discomfort
and continual adjustment. Most kilts now come complete with such
loops.
Clutter - Remember the beauty of
the kilt and your tartan should be seen and not covered up with too
many accoutrements.
Under the Kilt - "You're not a real
Scot unless you're bare under your kilt" should be thrown into the
same wastepaper basket as 'You're not a real Scot unless you put
salt on your porridge' but it's a humorous subject that's always
guaranteed to raise a giggle or a shriek . . . and even an
argument!
Traditionally of course nothing was worn under the kilt and if
history is correct and charging Scots threw aside their feleidh
mhors, no wonder they had such success on the battle fields. That
tradition was passed on to the Scottish regiments and nothing was
worn under the kilt in military circles unless dancing was involved
or public-access parades were taking place in high winds. On
parades, the drill sergeant frequently attached a small mirror to
the bottom of his pace stick so that he could, at a glance, check
that soldiers on were correctly undressed.
We mere civilians have a choice to wear or not to wear boxer
shorts or briefs. Common sense and a regard for others should rule
the day. It's one thing to go 'bare' when hill walking but to do
the same when attending an evening function that involved vigorous
dancing, could lead to the charge of exhibitionism and scant
consideration for the social comfort of others.