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 How to Wear The Kilt
based on an article by Harry Lindley
The late Harry Lindley was a legendary figure in the
world of tartan. As a Director of the long established (1868) Edinburgh firm of
Kinloch Anderson - Royal Warrant holders for Tailoring and Kiltmaking to HM The
Queen, HRH The Duke of Edinburgh and HRH The Prince of Wales - he was special
adviser on Highland dress to the Royal Family. If one wanted to know how to
dress 'properly', one asked Harry! Since he wrote this article in 1989, dress
codes have not changed a great deal but a touch of informality has certainly
appeared and we have added our own comments here and there in Harry's
article.
The most important thing to remember when wearing Highland
evening dress is that it represents a proud heritage and a proud people. Whilst
one can take certain sartorial liberties, they should not be so outrageous as to
offend more conventional guests! Harry would not have been so indelicate as to
discuss the music hall joke of what was worn under the kilt. ("Nothing
is worn under the kilt Madam - it's all in perfect working order!). It is
however the perennial question and the answer is to be found at Under
the Kilt at the end of this article.
The style of today is a
development and modification of the ancient garb, which still retains all its
essential features. Yet this modern style differs even from the Highland dress
of 60 years ago, just as the ordinary dress has altered during a similar period,
and it reflects the changing taste and practical conditions of the 20th
century.
Although the modern Highland dress is essentially up to date, it
still reflects the Scottish character in that it is susceptible to modification
to individual tastes and clan traditions in a manner not found in other modern
male attire. This, however, involves the necessity of expert advice, combining
of modern skill with knowledge of both past tradition and present tendencies, in
order to prevent the anachronisms and travesties still occasionally met with, or
where outfits have been acquired from sources not in touch with the great
Scottish families around which centres the Scottish clan system and its
customs.
Basically the costume for civilian wear may also be said not to
have altered since the 18th century. Yet, in matters of detail, each generation
has introduced modifications, and even modern fashions have appropriately
exerted their influences, though curiously enough, they have in matters of
Highland dress in many ways lead to rediscovery of both the practical and
artistic advantages of the older Scottish styles which, during the 19 century,
had tended to become more oppressive in cut and decoration. As an example of
minor changes in taste, the sporran of an all-white goat hair, almost
universally the fashion during the Victorian age, has to a great extent given
place to a smaller sporran of sealskin, often elaborately decorated with pierced
and engraved silver mountings.
In recent years the tendency has been for coats worn with the kilt
to be designed with greater simplicity, both for day and evening wear,
and to concentrate rather on the cut and lines than on braid and decorations.
The taste however, varies noticeably in different clans and districts, and those
favoured in the north and west are usually of more elaborate style. In many
cases the demand for lightness has led to the selection of the coatee in place
of the doublet. All these modern coats however, are very graceful as well as
practical and comfortable garb. Moreover, the coloured velvet doublets and
coatees of the 18th century, which could be so well adapted to suit the shades
of individual tartans, have again been returning to favour, often with the
characteristic silver braiding in a suitably modified form; whilst crosscut
tartan jackets have always retained their popularity in the West and amongst
country families.
Knowledge of these points and the ability to carry them out
successfully are, needless to say, beyond the scope of the ordinary tailor. The
tailoring of correct Highland dress is, indeed an thing apart from ordinary
tailoring, involving as it does a knowledge both of military and traditional
civilian practice as well as a background of origins of tartans, the clan system
and heraldry.
Highland dress as adapted for evening wear, makes a
serviceable, smart and becoming evening dress for men of all ages. In this
modern world where one is travelling far and wide and wishing to wear the
evening kilt outfit, the following suggestions may help.
Dressing (in sequence):
1. Shirt. You
should wear a white plain style collar-attached with either a button or cuff
link style cuffs. Keep it simple - no pleats at all or colour trimmings. It
should be worn with a black bow tie. Recently the shirt makers have introduced
an attached wing-collar giving a similar appearance to the 1930s traditional
stiff-fronted shorts with separate wing collar. This style of shirt can be worn
as an alternative. After the kilt has been put on, the wearer should slide his
hands up under the kilt and pull the shirt down as far as it will go.
2.
Kilt hose. Start with the kilt hose, garters and shoes. The hose
turnover should be above the calf but not covering any part of the lower knee.
White kilt hose is regarded by many as an abomination and should only be worn by
pipe bands. The culprits in the wide spread exposure given to this sartorial
'faux pas' are the kilt hire companies who, understandably, find it much more
economically viable to offer hose of any colour as long as it's white! Cream
hose is acceptable as are any colours that tone in with the jacket or kilt.
Diced or tartan hose can also be worn.
3. Sgian Dhubh. If you wish
to wear a sgian dhubh it is normally worn in the right stocking. It can
be worn on the left leg if you are left-handed. Remember, it is a weapon and
should be naturally accessible to you. Be advised that modern legislation in
some countries places a question mark over the wearing of such an 'offensive'
weapon.
4. Footwear. The smartest footwear with evening dress is
undoubtedly buckle brogues but since these are very hard to come by, any smart
formal shoes will suffice or, what are known as ghillie brogues with the long
laces that tie around the ankles.
5. The Kilt. The kilt comes next
and is worn firmly by the straps and buckles at the waist. The hem should come
to the crest of the kneecap thus showing the knee.
6. The Sporran
strap. This should be put through the sporran loops at the back of the kilt
and chains brought forward to attach them to the rings at the rear of the
sporran. You then adjust the hang of the sporran by means of the rear strap and
buckle.
7. The Sporran. It is most important that the sporran is
worn high and not midway down the front apron.
Your coatee and vest then
finish the evening Highland dress outfit.
Notes:
Lace Jabots and ruffles are not suitable to wear with the coatee and vest
(waistcoat). They are usually worn with the close-fitting high buttoned style of
doublet.
If medals are to be worn, they should be on the left breast. Medals
should be miniatures.
Waist belts with a silver buckle are not required when
wearing a waistcoat. If you wish to wear a belt then it is recommended you have
the kiltmaker sew on two, two-and-a-quarter inch belt loops beside the sporran
loops at the back to avoid the belt slipping up over the top of the kilt and
creating discomfort and continual adjustment. Most kilts now come complete with
such loops.
Remember the beauty of the kilt and your tartan should be seen
and not covered up with too many accoutrements.
Under the Kilt. "You're not a real Scot unless you're bare
under your kilt" should be thrown into the same wastepaper basket as
'You're not a real Scot unless you put salt on your porridge' but it's a
humorous subject that's always guaranteed to raise a giggle or a shriek . . .
and even an argument!
Traditionally of course nothing was worn under the kilt
and if history is correct and charging Scots threw aside their feleidh mhors, no
wonder they had such success on the battle fields. That tradition was passed on
to the Scottish regiments and nothing was worn under the kilt in military
circles unless dancing was involved or public-access parades were taking place
in high winds. On parades, the drill sergeant frequently attached a small mirror
to the bottom of his pace stick so that he could, at a glance, check that
soldiers on were correctly undressed.
We mere civilians have a choice to wear
or not to wear boxer shorts or briefs. Common sense and a regard for others
should rule the day. It's one thing to go 'bare' when hill walking but to do the
same when attending an evening function that involved vigorous dancing, could
lead to the charge of exhibitionism and scant consideration for the social
comfort of others.
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Long Plaid
This is a full length plaid which
consists of approximately three and a half yards of 54inch wide tartan (3.2
metres x 137cms) with the ends fringed. In Scotland this plaid is worn almost
exclusively by pipers in Pipe Bands, either civilian or Regimental. It is ver
rarely worn by the individual as it is rather clumsy to wear. Its origin in
history was that the long plaid was the upper part of the kilt or feile
mor which was used to cover the head and shoulders in bad weather. When not
in use it was wrapped around the body of gathered on either shoulder at the back
to prevent impeding the movements of the arms as much as possible.
Belted Plaid
This is a small plaid which is made
from approximately 2 yards of 54 inch material (1.8 metres x 137 cms) which is
fringed all round and has a corner piece to allow it to be fastened as the left
shoulder. This is a modified form of plaid which was designed to take the place
of the long plaid when used for evening wear. You can imagine that a person
would have great difficulty in enjoying an evening’s dancing at a Highland Ball
with a long plaid wrapped around the body. Another obvious example of its use is
once again referring to Pipe Bands, where you find the drummers having the
belted plaid as against the pipers wearing the long plaid. The drummers require
plenty of freedom for their arms and a long plaid would impede that. Plaids are
quite independent of the kilt these days.
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